Pattern of a female jacket fitted without a collar. Step-by-step pattern of a female jacket with a photo
Today, a jacket is one of the main things in life.wardrobe of a woman. And if before it was attributed to a purely business style, today the designers gave vent to fantasy and included this garment in absolutely different ensembles. Full freedom allowed to radically change the style of the jacket, giving it a diverse image.
However, many girls, despite this,agree that to find a jacket that would fit perfectly on the figure, was not small in the chest and did not hang around the waist, it is quite difficult. And if it succeeds, it's very difficult for women with more voluminous forms to find a worthy option.
What to do in this case? Buy a jacket that will be good in the shoulders and chest and independently bring the thing to the mind in the waist? Or is it better to consider individual tailoring? If yes, then a pattern of a female jacket is necessary, and whether it is possible to build it independently? Of course, yes, and there is nothing complicated in its construction, the main thing is to understand the principle. And then, having felt boundless possibilities, it will be possible to create real handmade masterpieces.
It is about how to build a pattern of a jacketfemale (fitted and direct silhouette) and will be discussed in this article. Here we will consider the basic methods of construction without any incomprehensible and frightening letters and designations that are used in book explanations.
Building the foundation
The pattern of the female jacket is based on the measurements taken from the figure. Therefore, using the centimeter tape, you should determine the following parameters:
- neck circumference;
- breast height;
- length from the base of the neck to the waist through the center of the chest;
- width of back;
- length of back from the base of the neck to the waist line (along the line of the spine);
- chest girth;
- solution of darts;
- waist circumference;
- height from waist to hips;
- thigh circumference;
- the length of the sleeve from the shoulder to the wrist through a slightly bent elbow.
For the convenience of constructing a pattern of a female jacketis divided into two zones: the waist and hip area and the area of the chest and shoulders. The second is more complex in the construction and includes shoulder seams and back darts, armholes and shoulder seams and darts of the shelf. In order to understand how the pattern of a woman's jacket is being constructed, each of the zones should be carefully studied, and then there will be no difficulties.
Building a grid for patterning the base
The whole drawing is built in a rectangle, wherethe vertical side is equal to the length of the article, and the horizontal side is half the measure of the circumference of the chest + a few centimeters for the free fit of the jacket. This value can be from 0.5 to 7 cm, depending on the model chosen and the fabric used. The pattern of the jacket of the female fitted silhouette should also have a small allowance, so that the product does not hamper the movements and does not strongly fit the figure.
Further on the drawing it is necessary to designate allhorizontal: the line of the chest, waist and hips. Here everything is quite simple. The waist line is at a distance similar to the length of the back to the waist + 3 cm (the depth of the neck cut along the back) from the upper side of the rectangle. The hip line, as a rule, is lower by 20-25 cm, but to determine the exact distance to the value of the measurement "length of the back to the waist", add allowance for free fit and divide the value in half. Then determine the bottom of the product, which can be lower or higher than the hip line. The breast line is found in accordance with the measurement of "chest height" + allowance for a free fit + 1.5 cm to lift the shoulder seam of the shelf.
To complete the construction of the basic grid, you still needdefine the armhole area. To do this, on the side of the backrest in the drawing, at the chest level, place ½ "back width" measures. From the received point lay ¼ of the breast volume. Everything, the armhole area is ready for work.
The step-by-step pattern of the jacket described belowthe female cut will help to create a basic base, which, with different versions of modeling, will allow you to sew absolutely any jacket, from classic to strict and sporting.
It should be noted that in the process of construction, half of the transmission and the backrest will be obtained.
Working with the area of the shoulder seams and backrest darts
The first thing to do is determine the location of the neck. To do this, from the top corner of the rectangle, put a half of the neck around the top of the drawing on the top side of the drawing and put a dot on it. On the vertical side of the corner, lay three centimeters down the line and connect the resulting points, making out the neckline of the back.
The pattern of a classic jacket (female) hasShoulder tucks, which ensure tight fitting of the product around the neck and without unnecessary folds on the shoulders. For their designation from the edge of the neck, retreat 5 cm and descend at a right angle a straight line 10 cm long. The depth of the dart is usually not more than 1.5 cm, so at the top this value is deposited and the ditch is closed by the second straight line.
Next is the turn of the construction of the shoulder seam. Here you should draw two auxiliary lines. The first goes from the extreme point of the neck to the vertical, indicating the beginning of the armhole zone. At the end point, it should be lowered 1 cm from the top of the rectangle.
Another line starts at the intersection pointThe second straight line designating the shoulder tuck. It also ends at the border of the armhole zone, but it is placed below the upper side of the rectangle by 3 cm. It is from this point that the armhole will be constructed in the future. It turns out that the second part of the shoulder seam begins immediately after the dart and ends on the line of the beginning of the armhole zone. However, this line should be extended by another 10 cm, so that later it would be easier to build a shoulder of the front shelf.
Working with the zone of the shoulder seams and the ducking of the shelf
Next, the construction pattern of the jacket of the female cutcontinues from the shelf side. It is also necessary to designate the neckline. On the upper side of the rectangle, the first step is to draw a parallel at a height of 1 cm and lay 1/3 of the half of the neck circumference + 2 cm, and on the side - 1/3 of the half of the measure + 3 cm. Then these points are connected by a smooth line, drawing almost a quarter of the circle .
Then proceed to construct the first elementshoulder seam. It originates at the extreme point of the neck of the shelf. First draw a line that is 5 cm and ends on the upper side of the rectangle, after it continue for another 10 cm.
Then follows the construction of the chest dart. First determine the center of the chest. To do this, along the line of the breast, lay down ½ part of the measurement "mortar grooves" and the resulting point is connected to the edge of the first element of the shoulder seam. Then, along the auxiliary line, measure 7-9 cm and lower the second line of the thoracic ditch, closing it at the base.
After returning to the construction of the shoulder seam, andnamely to its second element. Here it will be necessary to play a little with the ruler in order to measure the length and construct a cut so that the line starts at the intersection of the second straight line rising from the thoracic dart with the auxiliary feature of the first shoulder element, and ends where the auxiliary line running from the shoulder of the rear shelf intersects with the necessary value on the ruler.
Work with armhole
It is clear that the pattern of a simple female jacketstyle - this is a very difficult drawing, but if you carefully work, then the construction will not cause difficulties. The stage of work with armhole should start with the fact that the selected zone along the line of this element should be divided in half and draw a parallel below the chest line at 1 cm. Next, you need to find the anchor point of the armhole armhole.
For this, the "chest height" measure is divided into three partsand postpone the value on the line defining the area of the armhole of the front part. The resulting point is connected to the edge of the shoulder seam, but not a straight line, but a slightly curved line, which is displaced 1-1.5 cm into the center of this segment. Also, from the reference point to the center of the armhole, draw a smooth rounded line resembling the contour of a quarter of a circle. A rounded line is also provided on the back shelf, covering the armhole at the edge of the shoulder cut.
Work with the waist line
The next stage of the work is the simplest. The pattern of a short jacket (female), whose length is only a few centimeters below the waist, will be completed at this stage. The first thing for any model is to lower the waist line by 1 cm with a smooth line from the middle of the detail to the side seam. After the work will consist in determining the location of the trailing darts and their dimensions. In total, the drawing should result in four taps: along the center of the chest on the front shelf, along the side seam, along a vertical line, lowered from the top of the shoulder tuck to the bottom of the product, and on the middle side of the back. The calculation is as follows: from the breast line, you should take the measure of "waist girth" and divide this value into 4 parts.
On the side cuts, the tip of the dart muststart at the point of the center of the armhole zone and go to the hip line in accordance with the value of the girth. On the front shelf, the apices should end without reaching the center of the chest for 2-3 cm and at a distance of 4-6 cm from the hip line. The maximum size of this protection should not be more than 2.6 cm. On the back shelf the peaks should be 2-3 cm above the chest line and not reaching the hip line by 3-4 cm. On the middle seam of the back, the tuck comes to naught on the thigh line . Immediately you can build an extended female jacket. The pattern in this case is constructed similarly, only all the verticals are extended to the required level of the bottom of the product.
Construction of a sleeve on the armhole
The design of a sleeve of a jacket of a female type should beThe pellet coincides with the length of the armhole cut. Therefore, before you start working with the drawing, you need to measure not only the girth on the upper arm and wrist and the length of the sleeve, but also the perimeter of the armhole, in accordance with which the pellets will be built.
For convenience of construction it is necessary to take a separatea piece of construction film or paper and transfer to it the main lines of the finished armhole. Next, in the drawing, you should finish the circle, which will be obtained if you close the cuts of the armhole along the back and the shelf. After it is divided approximately in half, continuing upward the line of the middle of the armhole, and rise above the circle by 1.5 cm.
Next, along the line of the breast, mark the "volumeupper hand ". It is important to correctly distribute the fit of the sleeve, usually in the direction of the back, lay 2-3 cm more. After it follows from the extreme points of the width of the sleeve, "mirror" the armhole rises, and on the top outline the previously obtained closed circle above the line by 1.5 cm and lower the lines along the front and back, closing the sleeves of the sleeve.
Simulation of the product is one of the most interestingsewing processes. It is at this stage that you can make blanks for relief seams, cutting all the details of the cut, starting from the shoulder seams and the verticals passing through the thall tucks, the thigh line and down to the bottom, dividing the drawing into separate cut elements. This is how different jackets are born. Women's patterns, photos of which are offered in the article, can be taken as a basis for the manufacture of jackets.
Today, in the trend of a model without collars with a minimumfasteners, so, the basic pattern of the product - this is all you need for a chic fashion jacket. Here it remains only to designate the line of flanges that on the underside of the product will border on the lining cloth. This pattern of a short jacket of a woman's fashionable cut will be an excellent base for creating an ideal wardrobe.
Selection of fabric for sewing
Today in the stores of fabrics such variety,that you can really get lost. However, when choosing the material for tailoring a jacket, it should be remembered that the fabric should keep a shape, the benefit of suit and jacket materials in the assortment is simply in abundance. Even if it's a summer jacket, it's best to sew it out of linen or thin jeans, rather than from a strongly crumpled staple. Although the sewing business laws are not written, you can always experiment.
The tricks of cutting and assembling the product
Pattern of a jacket (female) without a collar isjust a find for the master. Using this template, you can sew not only the original fashionable jacket, but also a spring or summer raincoat. Today, such pre-fitted models, not heavier with turn-down collars or racks, are very popular. And due to simple cut and sewing is facilitated several times.
When cutting the main fabric on all the detailsshould give allowances about 1 cm for the processing of seams, at the bottom of the sleeve and shelves should be added to 3 cm At the same time, cutting out the details of the lining fabric at all seams, you should also give an allowance of 1 cm, but at the bottom of the length you need to take away 1.5 cm. Also do not forget about the product lineup, which is made from the basic fabric. They represent a frame around the perimeter of the product on its inner side.
For registration of this element on a pattern it followsnote parallel lines of sections at a distance of 7-10 cm from the edge along the middle section of the shelves and the neck of the back. The design of a woman's jacket without a collar is good because in the process of assembling it will only be necessary to join the lining with the pant leg, and after podbort with the base. In order to connect the base with the lining, these elements are turned inside out and folded face to face.
After laying the seam, the product is turned outthrough one of the unclosed sleeves of the lining fabric. Here you should not forget to cut the allowances for seams in places where the fabric is cut in a semicircle or an angle so that the seams are not pulled. Then connect the parts along the bottom of the sleeves and close the open working seam from the inside.