Female trousers: a pattern for beginners (step by step instruction)
Every woman at home should have a sewing machine. Use it most often for domestic needs: a hole to sew, a skirt to shorten or a handkerchief to sew. And what if you sew your own pants yourself? A pattern for beginners can be found already ready or built independently. It's not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.
Self-made pants can be needed in different cases:
- When the store trousers do not fit in the figureproperly. This can be caused by various reasons: non-standard proportions of the waist and hips, pregnancy, completeness in some places and others.
- When I want an exclusivity. Shops and markets are full of typical products from the simplest fabrics. Exclusive same models are fabulous money.
- When the house showed a quality fabric, which is suitable for trousers in size and composition.
- When there is not enough money for a new thing. If you compare the cost of the amount of tissue required and the cost of the finished product from a fabric of the same composition, you can see that self-made pants will save you money.
If there are very few sewing skills, thentry to start to make the simplest model of trousers. For example, a pattern of women's trousers for beginners (trousers or trousers on elastic can be used as a result).
What will you need?
In order to sew pants, you will need:
- Millimeter paper to build a pattern.
- Pencil, needles, coils of thread, suitable in tone.
- Centimeter tape for taking measurements.
- Basic and lining fabrics.
- Sewing machine.
- Overlock for processing the edges of the product. If it is not, it is not necessary to buy a special device. It is quite possible to follow the example of the Italian fashion designers and process the edges of the product with an oblique bake, which is sold in the hardware store. You can cut the beak yourself from the same lining fabric.
- For finishing if necessary: an elastic band, zipper, buttons, hooks, corsage tape and others. Additional materials are selected in accordance with the needs of the model.
Where to begin
In order to independently produce a patterntrousers, you need to take your measurements. It is better to do this in one underwear. Using a centimeter tape, you need to measure yourself in the places necessary for building a pattern:
- OT (girth of the waist). Measured at the waist in the narrowest place.
- OB (girth of the hips). Measured at the widest point of the trunk. If this is the area of the buttocks, then the measurement is made at the most prominent point without pulling the tape. If the widest area falls on the area of the riding breeches, then the tape should be slightly moved down to this zone.
- The width of the bottom (ШН).
- DB (length on the side). This size is determined by the distance along the side of the leg from the waist to the floor.
- Sun (height of the seat). This distance is determined as follows: you need to sit on a chair and drop the perpendicular to the seat. The length of this segment is the required size.
- VC (knee height).
- DS (step length). This figure is calculated from the difference in the length of the product along the side step and the height of the seat.
- Width of front and back halves of trousers.
These designations are used in the construction of patterns, and also apply in ready-made patterns in magazines or the Internet.
Where can I take a pattern without construction
If you do not really want to deal with the complex construction of a pattern in which formulas are used, you can use the ready-made option:
- Journal. You can buy a fashion magazine and from there copy a pattern. The convenience of this method is that the magazine often describes in detail how to perform individual elements of the model when sewing, as well as advice on choosing the fabric and cutting the product. The downside is that all models are given for the most common sizes and for typical figures. Therefore, owners of non-standard forms will have to adapt the ready-made pattern to themselves.
- Ready-made trousers. It happens that in the closet are old trousers that have become unusable because of their useful life or have become trite. You can take them and rasporot at the seams, then wash, iron, and for them to cut a new product, adding if necessary in the right places a few centimeters.
If there was no ready-made pattern, it is worthto build a pattern that will perfectly take into account all the features of the figure and can be used in the future to make different models of women's pants. By simple manipulation, the pattern-base of female trousers for beginners will turn into a designer product.
Building a Pattern
For cutting, you will need a pattern of women's trousers for beginners. A step-by-step instruction will help to build it correctly. And with a little effort, you will become the owner of brand new original trousers.
Usually it is rather difficult to constructpatterns of women's trousers. For beginners, however, complex formulas are not used in the drawings. It will take only two body sizes: the hips and length of the product. But it is worth considering that any pattern that is applied for the first time, should be adjusted to a specific figure.
Cutting will need to be done,that will have to leave more allowances on the seams. The first time is better done with a margin to protect yourself from the error. The second time you can already use a ready-made pattern and easy to sew women's pants. The pattern for beginners is made in the simplest version and is used for sewing straight trousers, which are used in the basic wardrobe of any woman.
This scheme can be built in just half an hour.
Pattern of women's trousers for beginners: step by step instruction
To begin with, it is necessary to define the so-calledthe norm of the thighs. The formula for calculation is as follows: Нб = 1/20. That is, if the hip circumference is 100 cm, the thigh norm calculated by this formula will be 5. The second formula used for construction concerns the definition of the value of the hip ratio. The formula looks like this: Кб = Нб / 2. That is, the hip ratio is half the value of the hip norm. With a hip circumference of 100 cm, the coefficient will be 2.5. In the construction of this pattern, additions to the seams (1 cm) have already been taken into account. Adding to the bottom edge is 3 cm. The pattern of women's trousers 54 size for beginners will have a thigh rate equal to 6, and the 44th size will be 4.5. That's how women's pants begin to be built.
Pattern for beginners: calculation of the front half
It is more convenient to first build a pattern on a large-scale sheet, then to transfer it to a sheet of paper already in full size.
In the center of the sheet a square is constructed, containing on each side 5 values of the norm of the thighs. For example, if the thigh norm is 5, then the square will have sides of 25 cm each.
Now from the bottom right of the receivedsquares up on his side, postpone the value of 1.5 thigh norm. In the example, it is 7.5. From the same angle, postpone to the right 1 the value of the hip norm. The resulting line is the buttock line. From the received angle it is necessary to postpone a segment equal to half the norm of the thighs, and through its end draw a line connecting the first two set points.
Now it is necessary to mark in the drawing a lineshooter of future trousers. To do this, from the lower left corner along the line of the buttocks, it is necessary to postpone 3 hip norms to the right and draw a vertical line along this line. Now from the point of intersection of the line of arrows and the upper surface of the square you need to measure the length of the trousers, postpone this segment along the line of the arrows down. The line of the bottom of trousers has turned out. To determine the line of the knee, the segment from the line of the bottom to the line of the buttocks is divided in half.
Now you need to narrow the pants. For the classical model of trousers, it is calculated as follows: on the line of the knee from the line of the arrow to the right and left sides, postpone the interval equal to 2.5 hip norms. At the bottom of the trousers from the line of the arrows lay two hip standards. That's how it is built to such a thing as women's pants, pattern. For beginners, even as you can see, there is nothing complicated.
Building the back half
This part of the model is more convenient to build on the front half, but for convenience, highlight the other color.
It is necessary to find the originally constructed square andabove its right upper corner in the left side, draw a square equal to 1 thigh coefficient on each side. Further from the already existing line of the step of the front half, one should lay aside one hip norm to the right, and from it the fourth part of the norm. Now it is necessary to draw a smooth line from the obtained point to the upper left corner of the small square. From the same upper left corner of the small square it is necessary to postpone 5 values of the hip norm so that this line connects with the waistline of the trousers of the front half of the pattern. The line will turn out slightly at an angle.
Now you need to add one hip normalong the line of the knee and the line of the bottom and connect the line of the lateral seam. Pattern is ready! Now it is necessary to transfer it to the large sheet of paper on the necessary scale and start cutting. You can pay attention that there are no darts on this pattern. Authors of this method recommend after the cutting to try on the outfitted pants and designate a dart where it is required. This can be determined in a practical way. Some models mean defenses instead of darts, so you can only arrange them at equal distances from each other. There is not much left to do for women's pants. The pattern for beginners of the basis of cut allows you to master, and then you have the technology.
After transferring the pattern to paper in naturalit is necessary to take the prepared fabric, iron it if necessary, fold it in half and pin the patterns with needles. Each half of the trousers is cut in a double copy. Before applying a pattern to the fabric, you need to determine the direction of the share thread. Pattern trousers should be located strictly in the vertical direction. For beginners, you can advise the easiest way to determine the share: you just need to pay attention to the edge of the fabric. It specifies the direction of the share thread. Hence the drawing must be applied parallel to the edge of the fabric. Draw on the fabric of future women's pants. A pattern for beginners in the basis of cut and sewing helps to master without any problems.
We proceed to sewing
After the pattern is circled chalk on the fabric,you need to cut it with sharp scissors. Then the details of the trousers are swept and tried on. If the landing of trousers in the figure is satisfactory, then you can proceed to stitching on the machine. If the landing requires adjustment, then sweep again and again try on the product. This is done until the landing will not satisfy the landlady.
We examined how a pattern of women'strousers (54 size). For beginners, everything was explained in detail. If you use elastic with sewing, and the goal is to get summer trousers, then you can use silk fabric. If you make additional zauzhivanie, you can get fashionable pants now. The basic principle of modeling: where you want the pants to be wider, the pattern expands, and where it needs a tight fit it narrows.
Thus, having constructed the drawing, you can onlyfor an evening or two sew for themselves fashionable women's pants. A pattern for beginners is built easily and quickly. Once you have made a workpiece, you can sew several models of trousers on its basis.